Paved with cobblestone, sitting between the outskirts of Old City and Center City lies Middle Child— a bustling, retro cafe serving up elaborate sandwiches. The restaurant has been open since October of 2018. Since then, Middle Child has won the best breakfast contest on “Good Morning America” and received praise from food critics and Philadelphians alike. But does Middle Child live up to its reputation? Some items on the menu are excellent, while others are a miss.
The worst part of the dining experience was the wait which, paired with the open kitchen plan which displayed the mouth watering food being made, felt unbearable. The most famous items at Middle Child are the sandwiches, lauded for their unique flavors and exceptional thickness; Based on the lengthy line and packed tables, their popularity was widespread. During the delay, we sipped on drinks, sampling two out of the four listed on the menu. The elixir coffee had an earthy flavor which, when paired with oat milk, created an aromatic experience wichthe vanilla lemonade, on the other hand, could not parallel. Its vanilla couldn’t come through, and the bitter aftertaste was not worthwhile.
When our sandwiches, the Court Street Reuben, Shopsin Club and vegan Phoagie, arrived, we found certain ones better than others. For starters, the Phoagie was disappointing: The sandwich was loaded with hoisin eggplant that was cloyingly sweet. The texture of the eggplant was okay—supple and tender, but the saccharine element was overpowering. The avocado helped to cut the sweetness slightly. However, it ended up making little difference. All the toppings, however, were loaded onto an excellent hoagie bun with sesame seeds. The Court Street Reuben proved to be a much better contender. The corned beef was thick and tender, creating a strong pickled flavor with its pairing of sauerkraut. The Russian dressing was a perfect complement to the beef, providing a tangy counter to the richness of the meat. The last sandwich, the Shopsin Club, was equally as delectable. Sliced turkey was piled high on crisp ciabatta, topped with cranberry miso mayo and sweet pickles. This sandwich was a masterclass in balance—succulent turkey complimented by the fantastically crisp bacon. As a side to our sandwiches, we also ordered the “Latka’d” Hash Brown. The hash brown was a crisp, deep brown on the outside and a cream colored, pillowy soft feel was present on the inside. The filling was a cross between a mashed potato and tater tot, and provided a satisfying end to our meal.
As the weather warms, a trip to Middle Child is a rewarding—if somewhat expensive—adventure. If you’re willing to brave the wait and don’t mind the occasional miss, this restaurant delivers. In true middle child fashion, it fights for attention with bursts of brilliance—sometimes overlooked, but emphatically worth the notice.
